Day 4 Part II. Western Wall and Shabbat Dinner 100 yrds away

We arrived in Jerusalem just in time for a quick overlook of the city from the south before heading to the Western Wall for the coming in of Shabbat (the Sabbath). I have been churning for a while, trying to find some sort of words or metaphor to describe the aura, weight, and experience of being present at the Western Wall of the Temple Mount in Jerusalem for the beginning of Shabbat on a Friday night. Nothing would do. I have nothing of appropriate description to paint and relate it. Singing, Praying, Dancing in Circle, Mourning, Observing, Crying, Sweating, Pushing and Shoving, Black and White Garb, Rocking and Twisting, Peace, and Organized Chaos. All words to describe, yet so much more.

(My buddy, Clark, and I. Jerusalem in background-Dome of the Rock over my bum shoulder)

From the wall we walked one half block to a Jewish community center for Shabbat dinner hosted by a wonderful, young couple who have recently immigrated to Israel from Canada. We were greeted as family, hosted as honored guests, included in the singing of the Hebrew blessings and songs, and fed very well (a common theme on the trip- each meal seems to outdo the last). Over the course of the meal, Patrick, our host asked two of our group members to speak about their impressions of Israel so far. They both spoke factually yet from the heart and afterwards, one of the Jewish-Israeli women who was eating with us rose from her seat in a purely impromptu manner. She spoke of holding back tears while hearing from us and being with us over the course of the dinner. She said that she felt a unique connection to our group and that we were unlike any student group that she has hosted before.

The dinner invoked in me a strange since of connection to our hosts and an increased love for this nation and its people. I felt a certain sense of being at home at that dinner. All of the unfamiliar and uncomfortable tensions that I have felt in the past at religious functions with which I am not accustomed faded away. Everything just seemed to click- sounds strange to most, I guess. That’s the way it is though. Patrick taught us that Shabbat is, of course, a time of rest. Shabbat dinner is supposed to be a time of joy and rest. Those two characteristics certainly lived up to their claims.

(no pictures of Wall & Shabbat because it is inappropriate to have electronic devices at the Wall during Shabbat out of formality and respect)

Day 4 Part 1: Visit to Boarder between Israel and Lebanon

Early this morning we drove north from Galilee to the Lebanese border. Ya, the one you’ve heard about on the news growing up. The one where 2 wars have gone down in recent memory. Oh ya, and the one where an Israeli soldier was murdered while doing maintenance on the boarder fence last week.

(Boarder fence below, UN base in the distance- UN troups 'mantain the peace' of the Israel/Lebanon boarder)

Israel Fact # 9: Israel’s border fences are built 150 yards inside of the actual border so that they can maintain the fences without having to cross into Lebanese territory. Secondly, Israel sends memo’s to the UN forces (they maintain the peace of the border) each time that they plan to even cross the fence, into their own territory, in order to work on its upkeep. So when you see pictures on the news of Israeli troops ‘over the fence,’ they are actually still peacefully in their own territory.

We drove to an overlook at Misgav ‘Am and met retired IDF Colonel Kobi Merom, the same officer who toured Rahm Emmanuel along the boarder last year. With a backdrop of southern Lebanese towns in front of our faces, Colonel Merom spoke with reserved conviction about the conflict with Lebanon.

We saw the fence. We saw charred earth below. We drove past mine fields. We heard the haunting calls to worship echoing through the hills as they flowed out of mosque towers below. I felt the hurt and the resolve in Kobi Merom’s heart . I saw both in his eyes. He told us of losing 73 of his soldiers, his adopted children, in a helicopter crash. Although he is strong, seasoned, and sharp, we could feel his longing for peace.

Walking through memorials to fallen soldiers, driving through towns which had been destroyed by rocket fire in the early 2000s, and listening to Merom portray the existential struggle for survival that Israel faces from all fronts again bought a sobering yet invigorating sense of understanding into my chest. He spoke with pride saying, “I am very proud to be a part of a military that cares so much about the human citizens on the other side of the border.” Harkening to…

Israel Fact #10: Hezbollah has recently won the elections in Lebanon and is now the ruling party. Over 60% of the population is now extremist, Shi’ite Muslim. Lebanese Christians, who we prayed for (along with the rest of the civilians) while overlooking the boarder, have mostly fled to the northern region of the country. Iran continues to pump weapons and propaganda into the nation, ignighting an increased sentiment of Islamic extremism among the population.

(our fearless guide, Avi, contemplating the impending threats facing his Country, his family, his people while overlooking southern Lebanon)

Day 3 Part 2: Golan Heights and Dinner/Lecture with Elliot Chodoff

After a quick swim in the Sea of Galilee, we bussed up to the Golan Heights. For a bit of strategic perspective, Israel has maintained control of the Heights since the Six Day War in 1967, partially because they overlook our hotel. Our tour guide’s father was swimming at this same location in the 1950s and was shot at by Syrians from above. Peyton Manning could literally throw a grenade off of the top of the heights, which would reach the roof our hotel room at HaOn Kibbutz before blowing up. Kinda important to keep that sucker occupied. Farmers cant farm well when being sniped while trying to pick bananas.

Next, we bussed up to the top of Ben Tal, an extinct volcano overlooking the Syrian boarder. The contrast between the fruitful vineyards of the Israeli side and the dusty dirt-lands of the Syrian side were unbelievable stark. (check out Zechariah 8 if interested cf vs. 11-13)

Israel Fact #6: The Syrian boarder has been the most ‘quiet’ Israeli boarder over the past decade. Instead of fighting directly, the Syrians fund Hezbollah, who are a terrorist organization occupying southern Lebanon. Syria is currently hemorrhaging from economic downturn and is therefore willing to undergo negotiations with Israel for $ and some territory (which was lost in the Six Day War of 1967).

From the overlook, we were able to soak in yet another picture of the proximity of the conflict to Israeli citizens. The blossoming vineyards almost directly abut the temporary boarder with Syria, yet the farmers seem to be plugging away, cultivating the land. The Golan region is known for producing some of the finest wines in Israel.

For dinner we were served another huge meal. Every time we sit down to eat somewhere, it seems like the waiters continually bring new dishes of food for the entire 2 hours of the meal. You gotta know I love that. Anyways, dinner was particularly powerful for me since I had the privilege of sitting one seat over from Elliot Chodoff. Mr. Chodoff is a former IDF (Israeli Defense Force) officer whose claim to fame is the writing of the Tactical Field Manual for the Israeli troops. He now works as a counter-terrorism analyst and does private consulting with US and Israeli intelligence agencies. As you can imagine- one of the most legitimately Rambo-esque men I have ever met.

When lecturing at Cal Berkley a few years back, a student who he believes to be associated with Hamas (terrorist organization operating in the Gaza strip) came up to him after his lecture and directly stated: “I am going to kill you.” Chodoff jovially explained to us that his response was equally as direct: “Ok, why don’t you come visit me in Israel and I will show you the graves of the other people that have tried.” Wow. Dude is not messing around. Legitimately- I am realizing that when you live your life in a country and defending a country that faces a daily struggle to maintain its existence, there is little to no room for mincing words or living passively. After dinner he gave us an extremely eye-opening and sobering talk about the state of terrorism in the world today.

Israel Fact #7: Israel constantly faces threats from terrorist organizations on their northern and southern borders. Hamas and Hezbollah, both of which receive funding and weapons from Iran, were founded by charters pledging to “eliminate Israel,” to “obliterate it” through Jihad. Most of you probably know all about this. Mr. Chodoff described the weight of this extremism for America and Israel and I found myself extremely angered and disturbed by the reality of this evil in the world. Elliot’s stealy resolve and commitment to his country’s heart rang through though. He firmly explained that, “if western military democracies cease to fight like western military democracies, then they (the terrorists) win.” Such a statement harkens to…

Israel Fact #8: After 8 years of daily rocket fire into Southern Israeli cities and towns, the IDF had no choice but to move into Gaza in 2006 to break up the infrastructure of Hamas. Here’s the crazy thing- before they dropped bombs, they dropped warnings- papers to warn the citizens in target areas of the coming attacks so that they could leave and not become collateral damage. Result- unheard of military precision in attacking combatants without causing significant civilian suffering. According to the Geneva Convention, an acceptable ratio of non-combatants killed to enemy troops killed in urban warfare is 35:1. Israel’s ratio in Gaza: 1:2 (or 2:1 if you want to make assumptions in the Goldstone Report). Ridiculous accuracy and humanitarian care here.

**Technical problems again (Ironic in a country that has more cell phones per capita than America and invented the Intel Centrino processor that is in my computer as i type)...Pictures to be added later- time for bed

Day 3 Morning: Biblical Sites around Sea of Galilee

I stumbled out of our hotel (more like a complex with lots of small condos- very simple condos) door around 6:45 am to experience a first real morning in Israel. Walking out on dock over the Sea of Galilee, I felt a certain sense of wonder as I thought of the many times that Jesus awoke early to spend time with his Father around this same freshwater lake. The hazy morning sky certainly added to this mystique.

After some time alone by the water, a huge Israeli breakfast buffet was served, and the group hopped on the bus to head around the Sea of Galilee towards Capernaum. The first site we stopped by was the location of a recovered Galilean ship dating to the days of Jesus. Our guide, Avi, explained the life of a fisherman of the time period. Ships were quite expensive and the occupation of fisherman indicated that the disciples were men of means for their day. Such a realization struck me, as I realized that when Jesus called his disciples saying, “Come, follow me, and I will make you fishers of men,” (Mark 1:17) they were actually abandoning a very comfortable and successful lifestyle to follow him. Its not as if they were some poor fishermen who left to better their situation physically.

Second, we proceeded to Capernaum, the hometown of Peter and likely of Jesus during his 3 year ministry in the region. Israel Fact #5: When the New Testament refers to crossing over the Sea of Galilee to the “other side,” it is implying that the characters are traveling to the pagan side of the lake, which is across from Capernaum. So in Mark 5, when Jesus crosses to the “other side” to cast out demons from Legion, He is actually beginning the spread of His Gospel to the Gentiles (non-Jews). Like basically everything He does, this is a very controversial crossing to the Jewish culture of the day, which did not associate with the pagans for the most part.

(with my buddy, Conor McMakin from OU)

Mount of Beatitudes came next. Aka the place of the Sermon on the Mount. As with all of the other Biblical sites, physically standing at the location has given me an unbelievably fresh perspective on all of the Scripture involved in them. We were given some time to sit and be present for a while at this site. Definitely needed. I decided to read through the beginning of the Sermon on the Mount (Matt. 5). Sitting in context sparked me to relish in the fact that as Jesus says His words “never pass away.” He physically uttered those words over 2000 years ago, yet they speak to the heart and the head of the human race with equal power today.

Jesus said: “Do not think that I have come to abolish the Law or the Prophets, I have not come to abolish them but to fulfill them.. until heaven and earth disappear,[nothing] will disappear from the Law until everything is accomplished.” (Matt. 5:17-18). Do you want to be a part of seeing them fulfilled? He offers us entrance into the adventure of it… “For I tell you that unless your righteousness surpasses that of the Pharisees and the teachers of the law (my money’s betting that there is no one who can claim that), you will certainly not enter the kingdom of heaven.” (v. 20)… well dang, then what. Thanks, Paul for clarifying- “But now a righteousness from God, apart from the law, has been made known, to which the Law and the Prophets testify. This righteousness from God comes through faith in Jesus Christ to all who believe.” (Romans 3:21-22)

Day 2: Arrival in Israel, ‘Biblical Breakfast’, Caesarea, Megiddo, and Moshav Nahalal

Flight was fairly uneventful except for the fascinating prayer times for the Hassidic Jewish men on board. Three times throughout the flight, including once during sunrise, the men gathered at the back of the plane, in full garb, to pray. It is incredible how the traditions of Judaism have been passed down nearly seamlessly for thousands of years.

Upon arrival we were met by our tour guide for the week, Avi Ben-Hur. Avi is a New Yorker by birth who immigrated to Israel after graduating from high school in 1983 and is now one of the most well-renown guides in Israel. He introduced us to his home land as we headed by bus to our first stop on a long-days journey. We toured Neot Kedumim, which is a ‘Biblical Landscape Reserve,’ meaning that the park is modeled after biblical times. From the reserve I got my first glance at the uniqueness of Israel’s situation geographically.

Israel Fact #2: At its most narrow point, Israel is only 9 miles wide. As we looked out from a 1700 year old cistern on the side of a small hill, we could easily see the security fence along the West Bank to our right and Tel Aviv on the coast to our left. No wonder this country is hard to constantly defend.

As we drove North along Route 6, we followed the security fence, which in some sections has been built into a concrete wall in order to prevent terrorists from literally sniper-ing Israeli cars as they drove to and from work along the highway.

In Caesarea, we toured Roman ruins of the city built by the infamous King Herod. The three smoke stacks from Israel’s main power plant in the background stand in stark juxtaposition to the ancient theater to the right. This theme of modern infrastructure and advancement blossoming alongside world-changing ancient sites will be a common theme of the trip, no doubt.

Next- Armageddon. Another 45 min bus-ride north brought us to Megiddo (aka Armageddon in the Greek translation- aka the place talked about in Revelation as the site of the last battle on earth). Standing on the top of the Tel (layer-cake of civilizations progressively built on top of each other, forming a hill) it becomes clear why this location has been home to countless battles over the course of history. The Tel overlooks the Jezreel Valley below and is located in a strategic corridor through hills in northern Israel.

Israel Fact #3: before the Jews returned to the land, the Jezreel Valley was a malarial swamp and the surrounding land was virtual desert (Mark Twain quote). In the past 80+ years, the Jewish landowners have drained the swamp and cultivated the land. It is now blossoming with abundant crops, flowers, and trees. Anyone who knows my love for the farmland of Hickman County and the mountains of North Carolina understands my fascination with this transformation.

As an unbelievable finally to our first day in Israel, we were hosted by Ofer Aviran and his family for dinner at the Moshav Nahalal. Nahalal is the first settlement of its kind in the world and represents a spin-off of the Kibutz settlement system. Basically, this farming community is a collective of 75 families, each with equal land parcels arranged in a circle (see pic). Each family has independent land rights yet all other institutions are run collectively by committee. To be frank- this place was utopia. Imperfect, I’m sure, yet there seems to be an incredible harmony of life within their collectivism. Upon arriving, we were toured through the community cemetery which rests on a hill overlooking the blossoming valley and settlements below.

Israel Fact #4: Israel follows a system of conscription. Each highschool graduate serves a mandatory 3 years of service in the Israeli Defence Force (dominant army). Ofer allowed us the privilege of visiting the graves of all of the sons and daughters of the Moshav community who have been K.I.A. He did this with grace, dignity, love, and clear pangs of a deep hurt.

Next our group was served a delicious, kosher meal. The dishes seemed to be never ending, and with each piping-up to talk that Ofer offered, we felt more and more like a part of his family. Its pretty hard not to gain an attachment to these Israelis as they began to tell us their stories and offer us a taste of their way of life.

Sleeping by the Sea of Galilee tonight. Following Jesus’ footsteps tomorrow. Peace out till the flip side- thanks for reading. More facts to come.

Day 1 (Monday, August 2)- Arrival in Newark and exploring NYC

After my gracious sister, Sumner, drove me to the airport, I made my way through the BNA to board my sixth individual plane flight in the last two weeks. Bound for Newark, Israel, and the most anticipated trip of my life, I found myself fairly mellow and laid back. I navigated travel with one arm in a sling yet again and found myself in the lobby of the Marriott Hotel in Newark New Jersey among a group of 37 students that I had (for the most part) never met.

Our group quickly adopted a family atmosphere. Briefly telling our stories of how we became involved with CUFI, we all began to feel a unity around a common love for Israel and the Jewish People. Once introductions were made, the Executive Director of CUFI, David Brog, addressed our group and spoke of the importance and exceptional privilege of our trip. He then went on to explain the more practical side of modern day foreign policy as it relates to Israel…

Israel Fact #1: Since 1937, Israel has made 5 offers for a 2 state solution with the Palestinians. All 5 times they offered land which they had rightfully either purchased over the course of history or won in battles initiated by the Arabs themselves. Fact: all 5 times, the Palestinian Arabs (different than the Israeli Arabs, who have Israeli citizenship and rights) rejected the offers for peace.

Irving Roth, a Holocaust survivor, who endured the atrocities of both Auschwitz and Buchenwald, narrated his story to us in beautifully and painfully vivid terms. As I listened to this history, which he lived and still breathes- as you can see it in his eyes, I found myself enthralled and also horrified at the pace with which a tinge of prejudice spawned into wicked Anti-Semitism and the Holocaust. Lies are most often crafty and subtle. If we don’t know Truth, as humans, we fall prey to them so easily. As Mr. Roth concluded his story and offered us signed copies, I found myself profoundly effected by the authenticity of a history which I have never before connected with personally and particulary excited to visit Yad Vachem (Holocaust Museum in Jerusalem) later this week.

A crew of students and I then hopped on a train and headed to check out the bright lights of NYC- a failing effort to outwit jetlag on the front end (by not sleeping much the night before the overseas flight). I was overjoyed to get to meet up with my dear friend Lucie Rhoads, who has been living in NYC for the summer while helping to start a charter school for KIPP Academy. Lucie guided us through Greenwich village and then over to Time Square where we hung out and chowed down on some late-night Carnegie Deli cheesecake. After snapping out of the daze inflicted by the intoxicating lights of American Advertising, I said ‘see ya soon’ to Lucie, and the crew and I headed back to the hotel.

3 hours of sleep. Final Breakfast in Newark (sitting with Irving Roth). Intense check-in and basic interrogation with El Al (Israeli Airline) employees….And we were headed to Israel.

I'm in

Voicemail: “Hi Carver, this is Jeremiah calling from Christians United for Israel. Would you give me a call when you get a chance? I would like to discuss something with you..”

‘Huh?’ I wondered. I guess he wants to talk about the upcoming Summit. So of course, after about 24 hours of putting off the returning of his call, I dialed up Jeremiah in Texas.

“Hi Carver, good to hear from you, I wanted to get in touch with you to let you know that you have been selected to participate in our Advocacy Mission to Israel in August. Would you be available to travel with us?”

My first thoughts- well, uh, I don’t know. That’s Linville time (family vacation in the mountains). I don’t know if I could. “Wow, man, thanks for the invite. Let me get back to you.”

So I hung up and I thought about it….for a week. Seriously!? It took me that long to realize how big of a deal it is to get to go to Israel. From my vantage point a month down the road, it is easy to see how insane it would have been to even question for a moment whether I would accept the invitation. However, as much of this summer has brought on, I have had to learn to let go of preconceived plans and notions in my head. Stubbornness manifested itself as I was stuck in the mindset of following what was known, safe, and secure- that being my plans to go to Linville in August. Thankfully, I came to my senses once I finally sat in the realizations of how incredible it would be to travel to Israel.

One week had passed. Last day to decide. Easy decision- I’m going to Israel.